Spas, sometimes written as "madzoon abour" (yogurt soup), is one of the most distinctive soups in Armenian cuisine. Unlike the tomato-based or meat-heavy broths common across the region, spas is built on a tangy yogurt foundation enriched with barley or wheat berries, fresh mint, and a drizzle of browned butter. It is comforting in winter served piping hot, and surprisingly refreshing in summer served cold straight from the refrigerator. Once you understand the basic technique of stabilizing yogurt with egg and flour, this soup becomes one of the simplest and most rewarding dishes in your Armenian cooking repertoire.
What Is Spas?
Spas is a traditional Armenian yogurt soup that has been eaten in Armenian households for generations. The name comes from the Persian word for yogurt soup, but the Armenian version is distinctly its own: heavily herbed with fresh mint, thickened with whole grains, and finished with a generous knob of butter and a shower of dried mint. It is a staple of the Armenian table in spring and early summer, when fresh mint grows abundantly in home gardens.
What makes spas different from, say, a Turkish yogurt soup or a Greek avgolemono, is the combination of matzoon (the traditional Armenian fermented yogurt, tangier than commercial yogurt) with the pronounced mint flavor and the whole grain texture. The barley gives it substance without weighing it down. See our guide on how to make matzoon at home if you want to use the traditional base.
Ingredients (Serves 4 to 6)
- 4 cups plain Armenian matzoon or full-fat Greek yogurt
- 4 cups water or light chicken broth
- 1/2 cup pearl barley or whole wheat berries, rinsed well
- 1 large egg, beaten
- 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped, plus extra for garnish
- 1/4 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
- 1 medium onion, finely diced
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 teaspoon dried mint
- Salt to taste
How to Make Spas: Step-by-Step
Step 1: Cook the barley
Rinse the pearl barley under cold water. Place it in a small saucepan with 2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 25 to 30 minutes until just tender but not mushy. Drain and set aside. If using whole wheat berries, soak them overnight and increase the cooking time to 45 minutes.
Step 2: Stabilize the yogurt
This step is the most important technique in the recipe. In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, beaten egg, and flour until completely smooth with no lumps. This stabilizes the proteins in the yogurt so they do not curdle when exposed to heat. Do not skip this step. Take your time and make sure the mixture is perfectly uniform.
Step 3: Combine and heat gently
Pour the water or broth into a medium to large pot and bring it to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low. Now, while stirring constantly, slowly ladle the warm broth into the yogurt mixture one cup at a time to temper it. This raises the yogurt temperature gradually. Once all the broth is incorporated, pour the entire mixture back into the pot. Continue stirring over low heat for 8 to 10 minutes until the soup thickens slightly. Never let it boil.
Step 4: Add the cooked barley
Stir in the cooked barley. Let the soup continue to heat gently for another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The barley will absorb some of the soup and the texture will become pleasantly thick.
Step 5: Fry the onion
In a small skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes until the onion is soft and golden. The butter should smell nutty and fragrant.
Step 6: Add herbs and onion
Pour the buttered onions into the soup, scraping all the golden butter from the pan. Add the fresh mint and cilantro. Stir to combine. Season generously with salt, starting with one teaspoon and adjusting from there. The soup should taste tangy, herby, and richly savory.
Step 7: Finish and serve
Ladle the spas into bowls. Garnish with additional fresh mint, a pinch of dried mint, and if you like, a small extra swirl of butter that will melt on contact with the hot soup.
Serving Suggestions
Spas is traditionally eaten alongside dolma, with a piece of lavash and some olives and white cheese on the side. It also pairs beautifully after a round of khorovats, as the cool tang of the yogurt cuts through the richness of grilled meat. On a hot summer day, try pairing it with a glass of tan, the Armenian yogurt drink, for a fully yogurt-forward Armenian spread.
In summer, skip the final heating step and serve the soup cold. Reduce the broth slightly so the cold version has a thicker, spoonable consistency. Cold spas is almost like a savory yogurt bowl with barley and herbs, and is wonderfully satisfying on a warm afternoon.
Tips for Perfect Spas
- Use full-fat yogurt. Low-fat or non-fat yogurt has too much water and the proteins break down more easily under heat. Stick to full-fat for the best result.
- Temper, do not dump. Adding cold yogurt directly to hot broth will cause curdling every time. Always temper by adding the warm liquid to the yogurt first, then returning to the pot.
- Stir constantly in the early stages. Once the yogurt hits the heat, it needs movement. A minute of neglect can mean curdled soup.
- Do not let it boil. A gentle simmer is the limit. Boiling breaks the emulsion.
- Make it a day ahead. Like many soups, spas tastes even better the next day once the flavors have had time to meld.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use Greek yogurt instead of matzoon for spas?
Yes. Full-fat Greek yogurt is the best substitute. It has a similar thick, tangy profile. The soup will be slightly less sour than when made with traditional Armenian matzoon, but the result is still excellent. Avoid non-fat yogurt, which is too watery and may curdle more easily.
How do I prevent the yogurt from curdling?
The key is stabilizing the yogurt before adding heat. Whisk the yogurt together with one beaten egg and two tablespoons of flour until completely smooth. Then add the liquid gradually while stirring, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a rolling boil. Stir constantly in the early stages.
What is matzoon?
Matzoon is the traditional Armenian fermented yogurt, tangier and thicker than commercial yogurt. It has been made in Armenian households for centuries. You can learn how to make it at home in our guide to homemade matzoon.
Is spas similar to yogurt soup in other cuisines?
There are yogurt soups across the Middle East and Central Asia, from Turkish yayla corbasi to Iranian ash-e mast. The Armenian version stands out for its heavy use of fresh mint (rather than dill or dried herbs alone), the use of matzoon which is tangier than regular yogurt, and the buttered onion garnish. Each tradition has its own personality.
Can I make spas ahead of time?
Yes. Spas keeps well in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The barley will continue to absorb liquid, so add a splash of water or broth when reheating. Reheat gently on low heat, stirring often, and never let it boil. You can also serve it cold straight from the fridge in summer.
Looking for another classic Armenian soup? Try khash, the slow-cooked bone broth that Armenians traditionally eat on winter mornings. Or if you enjoy yogurt-based Armenian drinks, check out our recipe for tan, the refreshing cold yogurt drink.